• HOME
  • PROJECTS
    • '20s
      • 1927 Essex
      • 1927 Model T
      • 1928 Essex
      • 1928 Essex PU
      • 1928 Ford Vicky
    • '30s
      • 1930 Ford Tudor
      • 1931 Ford Victoria
      • 1934 Ford
      • 1937 Ford Car
      • 1937 Panel
      • 1938 Chevy Coupe
    • '40s
      • 1940 Dodge
      • 1945 Chevrolet Bus
      • 1947 Dodge Power Wagon
      • 1948 Desoto
      • 1948 Frazer
      • 1948 Packard
      • 1949 Studebaker Truck
      • 1949 Studebaker PU
    • '50s
      • 1950 Nash
      • 1951 Chevrolet Gasser
      • 1951 Ford Bus
      • 1951 Ford Panel
      • 1951 Kaiser
      • 1952 Ford Panel F1
      • 1952 Pontiac Sedan Delivery
      • 1952 Studebaker 1/2 Ton
      • 1954 Ford Pick Up Truck
      • 1955 Chevrolet
      • 1955 Chevy
      • 1955 Chevy PU
      • 1955 Ford F250
      • 1955 Studebaker
      • 1956 Jaguar
      • 1956 Lloyd
      • 1957 Chevrolet Convertible
      • 1957 DKW
      • 1957 Nash Ambassador
      • 1957 Willys Wagon
    • '60s
      • 1960 Chevrolet Pick Up Truck
      • 1960 Chevy Panel
      • 1962 Falcon
      • 1964 Jeep Crewcab PU
      • 1965 Chevrolet Convertible
      • 1965 Dodge
      • 1965 MG
      • 1966 Triumph
      • 1965 Studebaker
      • 1966 Ford F100
      • 1967 Chevrolet Pick Up Truck
      • 1967 Ford Galaxie 500
      • 1976 Ford PU
      • 1967 Mustang Fastback
      • 1968 Cyclone
      • 1968 GTO
      • 1969 Mercury
      • 1969 Mustang Mach 1
    • '70s
      • 1971 Chevy 4x4
      • 1971 El Camino
      • 1972 Chevy 3/4 Ton
      • 1972 VW Karmann Ghia
      • 1976 Datsun 280Z
      • 1974 Maverick
      • 1974 Road Runner
      • Dodge Magnum
  • MISC.
    • Bench Vise
    • Chiropractic Table
    • Haystacker
    • Toy Wagon
  • SHOP POLICIES
  • 10 RESTORATION MISTAKES
  • EVENTS
  • CONTACT
  • TESTIMONIALS
Get in touch
555-555-5555
mymail@mailservice.com
Contact us
☏  (208) 324-1073

Mon-Fri 8:00am - 6:00pm
Open Every Other Saturday at 9am
Sunday By Appointment

2872 East 3400 North

Twin Falls, ID 83301

  • HOME
  • PROJECTS
    • '20s
      • 1927 Essex
      • 1927 Model T
      • 1928 Essex
      • 1928 Essex PU
      • 1928 Ford Vicky
    • '30s
      • 1930 Ford Tudor
      • 1931 Ford Victoria
      • 1934 Ford
      • 1937 Ford Car
      • 1937 Panel
      • 1938 Chevy Coupe
    • '40s
      • 1940 Dodge
      • 1945 Chevrolet Bus
      • 1947 Dodge Power Wagon
      • 1948 Desoto
      • 1948 Frazer
      • 1948 Packard
      • 1949 Studebaker Truck
      • 1949 Studebaker PU
    • '50s
      • 1950 Nash
      • 1951 Chevrolet Gasser
      • 1951 Ford Bus
      • 1951 Ford Panel
      • 1951 Kaiser
      • 1952 Ford Panel F1
      • 1952 Pontiac Sedan Delivery
      • 1952 Studebaker 1/2 Ton
      • 1954 Ford Pick Up Truck
      • 1955 Chevrolet
      • 1955 Chevy
      • 1955 Chevy PU
      • 1955 Ford F250
      • 1955 Studebaker
      • 1956 Jaguar
      • 1956 Lloyd
      • 1957 Chevrolet Convertible
      • 1957 DKW
      • 1957 Nash Ambassador
      • 1957 Willys Wagon
    • '60s
      • 1960 Chevrolet Pick Up Truck
      • 1960 Chevy Panel
      • 1962 Falcon
      • 1964 Jeep Crewcab PU
      • 1965 Chevrolet Convertible
      • 1965 Dodge
      • 1965 MG
      • 1966 Triumph
      • 1965 Studebaker
      • 1966 Ford F100
      • 1967 Chevrolet Pick Up Truck
      • 1967 Ford Galaxie 500
      • 1976 Ford PU
      • 1967 Mustang Fastback
      • 1968 Cyclone
      • 1968 GTO
      • 1969 Mercury
      • 1969 Mustang Mach 1
    • '70s
      • 1971 Chevy 4x4
      • 1971 El Camino
      • 1972 Chevy 3/4 Ton
      • 1972 VW Karmann Ghia
      • 1976 Datsun 280Z
      • 1974 Maverick
      • 1974 Road Runner
      • Dodge Magnum
  • MISC.
    • Bench Vise
    • Chiropractic Table
    • Haystacker
    • Toy Wagon
  • SHOP POLICIES
  • 10 RESTORATION MISTAKES
  • EVENTS
  • CONTACT
  • TESTIMONIALS

Needs a little repair and color change.

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Tops of both doors have rust and partial repairs

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Dent, flat spot

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cracks

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Block sanding shows how rough the body is. Light colors hide a lot.

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Hole from missing bracket, will fill and try to find bracket

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Had a couple bubbles in paint, moisture coming thru the holes , rusting, lifting paint. Will weld all holes shut.

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Had 3 cracks in filler, too thick,

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Deep filler in door.

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More holes to weld, may replace that area.

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Surprise, filler in rust holes

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Handful of filler behind rust hole, Will cut out area and replace with good steel.

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Could feel dents on the inside, hammered out and chunks of filler fall off

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Center bead line was completely covered with filler

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More holes in this dent to weld.

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More filler to remove.

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Rust holes to fix properly

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More rust

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Rust hole with filler.

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Easy access to back of dents, remove filler and pound out.

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old patch in lower area, will try to bring it out some or cut and replace.

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Another rust hole with filler in rocker

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I think this panel under the rear seat in supposed to be welded to the floor. Will look at another car to see for sure..

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Hammered out dented nose, crack in middle to weld. Should take very little filler this time.

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2 dents in rain gutter.

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Hole in rain gutter to weld.

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Almost totally naked

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Rain gutter repaired, will need tiny amount of filler before paint.

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Filler visible on inside of rusted metal

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Front nose rust cut out, will straighten inner brace first.

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Damage that didn't get repaired properly.

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Holes under filler and dented.

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cut out damaged area, will straighten rocker then weld in new straight piece.

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Rocker is now straight, having access hole made it much easier to fix.

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Making patches from a damaged VW door, best to use matching steel.

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carefully fitting new steel.

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Prepping to weld, found more rust. Make small patch for it first.

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First patch spot welded in place.

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Think I finally found the last rust spot.

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After cleaning more found more holes under filler.

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Finished welding and grinded smooth.

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First few spot welds to prevent warpage, as little heat as possible at one time.

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2 more patches trimmed and spot welded in.

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2nd round of spot welding, 2 or 3 more rounds before done.

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Holes welded shut.

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After grinding welds smooth, ready for a little filler and sanding.

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Metal work on right side rocker done.

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with copper plate behind rain gutter, weld hole shut.

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Let cool then grind smooth.

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.Smooth enough for primer.

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Hole welded and smooth at rear of rain gutter.

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Visible damage inside right door (gap)

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Curve up in bottom of door

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Filler had been used to hide damage.

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Straightened, but still have a little rust damage to repair

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Gap is now gone.

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New metal welded in top of door.

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Rust in top of door

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More filler shoved thru rust holes.

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Made a new piece to replace damaged area, but made it a fraction too small, will repair original. Not enough of the donor VW door to cut another.

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Studs attached for pulling dent.

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Left rear fender ground smooth, ready for a little filler.

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Holes in left rear fender welded shut.

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Smoothed original piece, welded holes, shrunk high spots, clamped in place for welding

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Tack welds started, hammer and dolly as I go.

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Successfully welded back together, a little hammer and dolly work, pretty straight, very shallow waves, 1/8th inch filler max.

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Another hole in rain gutter, left side.

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Welded.

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Ground smooth.

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Hole.

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Welded with copper plate for backing to keep inside smooth.

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Smoothed.

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Found a hole near front of roof, will weld and smooth.

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Dent near middle of roof. Previous repair had filler over 3/4th of roof to match the high spot.

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If they had left the dent down, a small area would have needed filler, but would be more than 1/4 inch deep, too deep.

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Highest point of dent was ground thin and melted thru when shrinking.

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Welded hole, shrank dent, smoothed back to its gradual curve, will take very little filler to smooth out for paint.

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Will remove the vinyl off the center of dash to paint body color .

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Studs to pull dent from shrinkage from welding

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All welding and metalwork is done.

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Thin coat of filler and lots of future sanding, primer, and more sanding

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Dash pad hides upper holes. 1/4 inch gaps in lower slots, will weld.

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Hammer slots shut.

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Weld seams.

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Grind welds smooth.

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Radio hole had been modified, no way to mount new radio.

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Made new piece from thicker steel and welded in place.

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all welds will be hidden

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Straightened the rear seat riser till it touched the floor and welded.

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Lots of hard glue to remove off doors and dash.

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first layer stage of primer

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Tools of my life for the next week or so.

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2nd day of block sanding, finding high and low spots. Tomorrow I'll lay on the floor most of the day sanding the low areas.

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Bead rolling a new glove box door

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Using the bead roller bend the top curved edge before sliding the original door inside and crimping together.

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Original plastic cover on top, steel below. Much stiffer now.

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I think it looks better with the bead.

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And I thought the hood was perfect, not. Block sanding shows every high and low spots.

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Ready to prime again.

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Ready to prime again.

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Here's the main reason I like to use black primer, when wet shines and reflects like gloss paint to see how smooth it is. Ready for white pearl.

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3 stage paint, white base, pearl then clear

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POR-15 rust sealant inside of both doors and bottom seam to prevent any further rust.

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Painted dash, edges of doors, hood and trunk with red and clear

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Sound deadener added

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headliner is in

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Chrome window trim is in pretty bad condition. I sanded and buffed the end to see if it would shine. Looks like it will.

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Used trim was bought for the car, lots of bends.

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bent back onto shape

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new glove box door mounted

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side trim added

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bending, drilling, trimming 2 inch flat steel to make new bumper bracket for the older style bumper

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spot welded

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remove to finish welding so I don't damage the chrome

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bolted back in

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removing alot of original bumper bracketbolted

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more to remove

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now to prep to weld behind bumper, remove and finish welding, grind and paint.

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making a bracket that will plug holes and hold canister

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test fitting

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Painted, sealed and mounted

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My part is finished, on to upholstery for carpet and seat repair.

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2872 E. 3400 N,  Twin Falls, ID 83301   (208) 324-1073

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